Cameroon's victory over Ghana has silenced the nation. Now people are facing up to life in the real world as their dream of lifting the trophy has come to an end. Walking back from the stadium to Osu, where every other time there has been people "jubilating" (yes they use this word a lot over here) all over the place, people discussed the tactics and decided who was to blame. I saw the previous day on TV politicians defending John Mensah's red card as an act he had to commit, they went into great detail as if they were the managers of the team. Such is the fever that had gripped the nation. From my own personal point of view the fever is also much better!
In truth I think this sending off coupled with a lack of quality strikers was the reason for ghana's exit. With Mensah absent Essien was asked to play a much deeper role, and was unable to support the attack. Cameroon took their chance.
The 5p.m. start times have meant that people have struggled to get to the games in time for kick off as they rush from work. In Kumasi, the locals, unwilling to pay the price of 4 cedis (about 2 pounds) would wait until the gates were opened around twenty minutes from the end and pour in in their thousands to catch just a glimpse of the action.
When you realise that a normal working wage is just 5 cedis a day you begin to understand their predicament. The Local Organisation Committee (LOC) has come in for severe criticism for its pricing policy and distribution of tickets. Tickets were meant to be available through Banks and Post Offices, people spent hours queuing but were frequently disappointed as either tickets never materialised or there were insufficient numbers available to meet demand. Yet come match day there were people on the street happy to sell tickets above face value, especially to the foreigners who would pay the inflated prices.
For any locals getting their hand on tickets the chance of a 10 cedi profit (2 days work) gave them a dilemma. Support their national team which they do passionately, or take the money to live on. Just yesterday a friend had his rent increased from 40 cedis a month to 60 cedis (a 50% increase without any warning).
Here children often fail to complete their education as they need to support themselves by selling items on the market, as a result many lack the basic skills which we take for granted back home. Last July the currency was devalued - 10,000 old Ghana cedis now being worth 1. The people have struggled to understand the change and still talk as though they are dealing in old cedis. Thus causing great confusion to myself when I am asked to pay a grossly inflated price.
At the end of the year a presidential election is due. The people here are hoping that this will bring a change in the current unemployment system, cost of electricity (which is paid for just now but not necessarily provided) and improvements to transportation links. I would also hope that work is done on the open drains which encourage mosquitoes and increase the risk of malaria for all.
Finally the people are growing restless with the current Government especially after it was revealed that they had lost (!) millions of old cedis which were to be burnt, and the police (or "one cedis" as they are known - one cedi being the amount required to bribe them) who recently, it was revealed had captured a large amount of narcotics. The bust was under surveillance but the drugs were found to have been replaced, presumably finding their way back on to the market.
The Government has proudly supported the football team during its African Cup campaign, it is now time for it to support it's own people.
© Ross Clegg & Soccerphile.com
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Showing posts with label African Cup of Nations. Show all posts
Showing posts with label African Cup of Nations. Show all posts
Friday, February 8, 2008
Monday, February 4, 2008
Ghana Fever
The hopes of all Ghanaians have been raised by their performance in overcoming Nigeria and the referee in yesterday's game. I saw that Le Roy had prononounced that he was not God, but I am just waiting for the headlines to read Agogod! After a piece of divine intervention saw him scoring the winning goal at the end of a nervy game, sending Ghanaians jubilating late into the night.
Another type of fever may have been caused by the food over here. The main dish available everywhere is chicken and rice. Favourite local dishes include Fu Fu, a soup with balls of kenkye (made from corn). I chose this dish and started to eat it with a spoon much to the amusement of the locals, who then proceeded to use their hands to break off pieces of kenkye to mop up the soup and finished theirs in no time as I struggled.
Other favourites include Banku where the only difference appears to be that it is not quiet as gooey as Fu Fu. Dried fish are readily available wherever your go, but as yet this correspondent has left them alone. My current diet is of omlette as I battle this particular Ghanaian Fever.
© Ross Clegg & Soccerphile
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Another type of fever may have been caused by the food over here. The main dish available everywhere is chicken and rice. Favourite local dishes include Fu Fu, a soup with balls of kenkye (made from corn). I chose this dish and started to eat it with a spoon much to the amusement of the locals, who then proceeded to use their hands to break off pieces of kenkye to mop up the soup and finished theirs in no time as I struggled.
Other favourites include Banku where the only difference appears to be that it is not quiet as gooey as Fu Fu. Dried fish are readily available wherever your go, but as yet this correspondent has left them alone. My current diet is of omlette as I battle this particular Ghanaian Fever.
© Ross Clegg & Soccerphile
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Sunday, February 3, 2008
African Cup of Nations Tickets
Achieved the impossible!!!
Bought a ticket at face value over the counter.
I have made friends with locals in each city and they have been helping me find my way around. Also arranged that when I came back they would try and have tickets waiting for me.
Even though I arrived in Takoradi an hour ahead of schedule Nicholas was waiting for me. He told me he had been to the Bank & the Post Office the previous day but that no tickets were on sale. We returned today and walked out with the tickets, when he mentioned that he had been the previous morning they just said that they don't sell them in the morning.
At the game I met the Benin witch doctor - a larger than life character who I first saw on the stadium screen. I met him under the stands during half time and asked to take his photo, he was reluctant and asked for money. Aware of this practice I had been saving my coins to use in such a situation. He kindly told me I could take one, just one.
I asked him to explain the different trinkets he had and what effect they would have on me. I gathered that he had complete control over me, but reassuringly he wasn't going to kill me.....just now. I took the photo and asked if he wanted to see it, as I held it away from and showed his entourage. He became curious and as the others were commenting he now wanted to see.
As he looked a big smile appeared on his face. Then other Benin supporters wanted their photo taken with him. I told them that I couldn't help as I was only allowed to take one. (I was worried about the consequences if I took more). I think they elected me Benin supporters' official photographer, so suddenly they had agreed that I would take their photographs with the witch doctor. Email addresses were exchanged and the witch doctor grabbed my hand and invited me into the stadium. As he danced I shot some film, and after called him over to see this. After watching this he grabbed me in some sort of bear hug and then started to rub noses, cheeks and forehead. Suddenly this white man was no more! A quick trip to the bathroom and the paint was removed.
From Takoradi, I caught the local transit van. The vans wait until they are full and then set off. I guess the warning signs were there when they had to push it to get it started. Sure enough after two hours on the road & in the middle of nowhere we broke down. Normally there are street vendors at every roadside dwelling you see, selling their wares, bags of iced water, fish, yam amongst other things. Here there was no one.
The driver jumped in a car and headed back to Cape Coast. Two hours later he returned, and our journey continued. Arriving in Kumasi 45 minutes before the game I quickly sorted out accomodation and went to meet my friends, not surprisingly they were not there, but they left someone at the meeting place to tell me there was no problems and you could buy tickets at the stadium.
Yesterday in Tamale, there was no sign of official tickets available and so of I went with my latest entourage. I ended up paying 25 cedis (Twelve pounds 50 pence) for 3 VIP tickets (Face value 75 cedis each). My friends Nodge and Mustafa thought it was great, but I told them the best seats were the ones behind the goals, where the supporters made all the noise.
Sure enough after twenty minutes, Nodge with his Leeds United badge on, was cheering on Rui Marques for Angola. This obviously inspired the team as they turned their 1-0 deficit into a 3-1 win. The second game saw South Africa play Tunisia and there were few Tunisians to be seen. However once they scored the local drummers started up and a party atmosphere was seen all around us as local Ghanaians danced to the rythmn and gestured to the South Africans.
© Ross Clegg & Soccerphile
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Bought a ticket at face value over the counter.
I have made friends with locals in each city and they have been helping me find my way around. Also arranged that when I came back they would try and have tickets waiting for me.
Even though I arrived in Takoradi an hour ahead of schedule Nicholas was waiting for me. He told me he had been to the Bank & the Post Office the previous day but that no tickets were on sale. We returned today and walked out with the tickets, when he mentioned that he had been the previous morning they just said that they don't sell them in the morning.
At the game I met the Benin witch doctor - a larger than life character who I first saw on the stadium screen. I met him under the stands during half time and asked to take his photo, he was reluctant and asked for money. Aware of this practice I had been saving my coins to use in such a situation. He kindly told me I could take one, just one.
I asked him to explain the different trinkets he had and what effect they would have on me. I gathered that he had complete control over me, but reassuringly he wasn't going to kill me.....just now. I took the photo and asked if he wanted to see it, as I held it away from and showed his entourage. He became curious and as the others were commenting he now wanted to see.
As he looked a big smile appeared on his face. Then other Benin supporters wanted their photo taken with him. I told them that I couldn't help as I was only allowed to take one. (I was worried about the consequences if I took more). I think they elected me Benin supporters' official photographer, so suddenly they had agreed that I would take their photographs with the witch doctor. Email addresses were exchanged and the witch doctor grabbed my hand and invited me into the stadium. As he danced I shot some film, and after called him over to see this. After watching this he grabbed me in some sort of bear hug and then started to rub noses, cheeks and forehead. Suddenly this white man was no more! A quick trip to the bathroom and the paint was removed.
From Takoradi, I caught the local transit van. The vans wait until they are full and then set off. I guess the warning signs were there when they had to push it to get it started. Sure enough after two hours on the road & in the middle of nowhere we broke down. Normally there are street vendors at every roadside dwelling you see, selling their wares, bags of iced water, fish, yam amongst other things. Here there was no one.
The driver jumped in a car and headed back to Cape Coast. Two hours later he returned, and our journey continued. Arriving in Kumasi 45 minutes before the game I quickly sorted out accomodation and went to meet my friends, not surprisingly they were not there, but they left someone at the meeting place to tell me there was no problems and you could buy tickets at the stadium.
Yesterday in Tamale, there was no sign of official tickets available and so of I went with my latest entourage. I ended up paying 25 cedis (Twelve pounds 50 pence) for 3 VIP tickets (Face value 75 cedis each). My friends Nodge and Mustafa thought it was great, but I told them the best seats were the ones behind the goals, where the supporters made all the noise.
Sure enough after twenty minutes, Nodge with his Leeds United badge on, was cheering on Rui Marques for Angola. This obviously inspired the team as they turned their 1-0 deficit into a 3-1 win. The second game saw South Africa play Tunisia and there were few Tunisians to be seen. However once they scored the local drummers started up and a party atmosphere was seen all around us as local Ghanaians danced to the rythmn and gestured to the South Africans.
© Ross Clegg & Soccerphile
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Wednesday, January 30, 2008
African Cup of Nations Review
Soccerphile's Ross Clegg found a working PC to email in this review of the action at the African Cup of Nations in Ghana.
So far the tournament has produced some good games and some great goals. The stadiums are just pure noise with fans all just making their own sounds in little groups. So whilst there is an atmosphere inside the stadiums, it is definitely not your European one.
These groups of fans are partly made up of companies who have transported workers in and they all sit together with the same t-shirts on and sing together. I heard the longest ever version of "Michael Rode The Boat Ashore" at the opening match.
Travelling between games you take your life in your hands as you can count sometime on more than one hand the number of vehicles, normally container lorries, lying abandoned by the side of the road.
The venues are not too far apart but the state of the roads means that it is something of a chore travelling from place to place. My longest journey to date is 12 and a half hours from Tamale to Accra overnight by minibus, through bandit country!
Ghanaians have been very friendly especially handing in passports that foreigners lose.
Still trying to buy tickets officially but I have not managed it yet. The police are arresting locals who have sold tickets for 2 pounds more than face value. Ghana Commercial Bank which is meant to sell the tickets, keep telling me to come back tomorrow, which is a common Ghanaian phrase which also translates as try again later.
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So far the tournament has produced some good games and some great goals. The stadiums are just pure noise with fans all just making their own sounds in little groups. So whilst there is an atmosphere inside the stadiums, it is definitely not your European one.These groups of fans are partly made up of companies who have transported workers in and they all sit together with the same t-shirts on and sing together. I heard the longest ever version of "Michael Rode The Boat Ashore" at the opening match.
Travelling between games you take your life in your hands as you can count sometime on more than one hand the number of vehicles, normally container lorries, lying abandoned by the side of the road.
The venues are not too far apart but the state of the roads means that it is something of a chore travelling from place to place. My longest journey to date is 12 and a half hours from Tamale to Accra overnight by minibus, through bandit country!
Ghanaians have been very friendly especially handing in passports that foreigners lose.
Still trying to buy tickets officially but I have not managed it yet. The police are arresting locals who have sold tickets for 2 pounds more than face value. Ghana Commercial Bank which is meant to sell the tickets, keep telling me to come back tomorrow, which is a common Ghanaian phrase which also translates as try again later.
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Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Egypt v Cameroon
African Champions Egypt showed no signs of giving up their crown without a fight after the impressive 4-2 demolition job they handed out to Cameroon at the Baba Yara Stadium, Kumasi, in Ghana.
Cameroon started as one of the favorites at the African Cup of Nations 2008 but a three-goal blitz in the first half settled the match in Egypt's favor. Mohamed Zidan and Hosni Abd Rabou both scored twice for the reigning champions with Barcelona's Samuel Eto'o replying with two second half goals for Cameroon.
In tonight's matches Tunisia take on Senegal and its South Africa v Angola in a double-header at the 21,000 capacity Tamale Stadium in Tamale.
Images © Ross Clegg & Soccerphile.com
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Tuesday, January 22, 2008
African Cup of Nations 2008
The African Cup of Nations 2008 is underway in Ghana and the bookies' favorites Ivory Coast underlined their strong claim to win the tournament with a 1-0 Group B win over Nigeria.
Though premiership managers might bemoan the lack of their African stars over the three weeks of the tournament, it is a chance for fans in Africa to see their heroes in the flesh.
In tonight's matches Cameroon are the slight favorites to beat reigning champions Egypt, while Zambia are more heavily fancied to beat Sudan.
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Though premiership managers might bemoan the lack of their African stars over the three weeks of the tournament, it is a chance for fans in Africa to see their heroes in the flesh.
In tonight's matches Cameroon are the slight favorites to beat reigning champions Egypt, while Zambia are more heavily fancied to beat Sudan.
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Thursday, January 17, 2008
Premier League bemoan African festival of football
As the African Cup of Nations gets underway in Ghana this Saturday, objecting voices over the tournament’s timing are coming thick and fast from the English Premier League. No fewer than thirty-four players have left UK shores for the competition, which runs until February 10. Between now and then three full weekends of Premiership fixtures, in addition to fourth round FA Cup ties and Carling Cup Semi-Final second legs, are to be played.
Aston Villa, Derby County, Manchester City and Wigan Athletic are the only clubs not to have a representative in Ghana, while other teams are facing up to reality of losing between three and four first team players. Only time will tell if the African Cup of Nations is to have any serious ramifications in the championship race, relegation dog fight or battle for European qualification places. One thing is for sure though, the league’s managers will refuse to hide their distain for the international competition until each and every one of their African stars are back in England, fit and ready to put on their club jerseys.
One of the strongest objectors to the African Cup of Nations being played in its current calendar spot is Arsenal boss Arsene Wenger. The French manager has lost three key first team players to the tournament, at a crucial time when the Gunners find themselves level on points with Manchester United at the top of the Premier League table. Kolo Toure and Emmanuel Eboue are to represent the Ivory Coast while Alex Song will be playing for Cameroon. Their departure will leave a major gap in the north London side’s defence as they prepare for a weekend trip to Fulham and Tuesday’s Carling Cup Semi Final, second leg against rivals Tottenham. Arsenal’s only relief is that top goal scorer Emmanuel Adebayor will be staying in London as his Togo side failed to qualify for the tournament.
Wenger has called for the African Cup of Nations to be held just once every four years, rather than biennially and that it should be played in the summer instead of winter. He has also gone on record as stating that if the tournament’s timing is not changed, it could mean that English clubs no longer look to buy African players. "(Organisers) know more and more players play in Europe for the big clubs, and the big clubs don't want to pay the price," Wenger recently told the BBC. "That means it will be detrimental to the African players because the big clubs will not give them a chance any more."
The Arsenal boss commented this week that he thinks his Gunners side along with Chelsea and Portsmouth will be the Premiership clubs most effected by the African Cup of Nations. That seems a fair assessment looking at the list of players who have left for Ghana. Chelsea have lost Michael Essien (Ghana), Didier Drogba (Chelsea), Salomon Kalou (Ivory Coast) and John Obi Mikel (Nigeria). The shock waves of those departures should be eased by the Blues’ January signings of striker Nicolas Anelka and defender Branislav Ivanovic however.
Portsmouth are to be without Sulley Muntari (Nigeria), Geremi (Cameroon), Habib Beye and Abdoulaye Faye (both Senegal). Like Arsenal, Pompey boss Harry Redknapp can at least draw comfort in the fact their most prolific hit man this season, Benjani, wont be required in the competition, as Zimbabwe also missed out on qualification. The Fratton Park club have been quick to seek cover for their departing players, adding the 22-year-old French international defender Lassana Diarra to their squad this week.
The Premiership and other top European leagues will gain encouragement from FIFA president Sepp Blatter’s view that the African Cup of Nations should be moved to June and July sooner rather than later. He has set the Confederation Football Africain (CAF) the challenge of moving the tournament to the summer months by 2016. That’s despite CAF’s insistence they want to keep the biennial competition in its original calendar position, claiming the weather in Africa is better for football then. Some signs of a compromise with football’s world governing body have been evident this week though, when CAF announced the African Cup of Nations will kick off ten days earlier in Angola in 2010. This will ensure players return to their clubs in good time ahead of Champions League and UEFA Cup matches.
The inconvenience felt by the Premiership’s high and mighty over the African Cup of Nations is set to run long after the February 10 final. Given the Premier League’s profile and power, it will be interesting to see just how long CAF can continue to frustrate England’s elite clubs with their defiance over a January tournament in the future.
© Andy Greeves & Soccerphile
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Aston Villa, Derby County, Manchester City and Wigan Athletic are the only clubs not to have a representative in Ghana, while other teams are facing up to reality of losing between three and four first team players. Only time will tell if the African Cup of Nations is to have any serious ramifications in the championship race, relegation dog fight or battle for European qualification places. One thing is for sure though, the league’s managers will refuse to hide their distain for the international competition until each and every one of their African stars are back in England, fit and ready to put on their club jerseys.
One of the strongest objectors to the African Cup of Nations being played in its current calendar spot is Arsenal boss Arsene Wenger. The French manager has lost three key first team players to the tournament, at a crucial time when the Gunners find themselves level on points with Manchester United at the top of the Premier League table. Kolo Toure and Emmanuel Eboue are to represent the Ivory Coast while Alex Song will be playing for Cameroon. Their departure will leave a major gap in the north London side’s defence as they prepare for a weekend trip to Fulham and Tuesday’s Carling Cup Semi Final, second leg against rivals Tottenham. Arsenal’s only relief is that top goal scorer Emmanuel Adebayor will be staying in London as his Togo side failed to qualify for the tournament.
Wenger has called for the African Cup of Nations to be held just once every four years, rather than biennially and that it should be played in the summer instead of winter. He has also gone on record as stating that if the tournament’s timing is not changed, it could mean that English clubs no longer look to buy African players. "(Organisers) know more and more players play in Europe for the big clubs, and the big clubs don't want to pay the price," Wenger recently told the BBC. "That means it will be detrimental to the African players because the big clubs will not give them a chance any more."
The Arsenal boss commented this week that he thinks his Gunners side along with Chelsea and Portsmouth will be the Premiership clubs most effected by the African Cup of Nations. That seems a fair assessment looking at the list of players who have left for Ghana. Chelsea have lost Michael Essien (Ghana), Didier Drogba (Chelsea), Salomon Kalou (Ivory Coast) and John Obi Mikel (Nigeria). The shock waves of those departures should be eased by the Blues’ January signings of striker Nicolas Anelka and defender Branislav Ivanovic however.
Portsmouth are to be without Sulley Muntari (Nigeria), Geremi (Cameroon), Habib Beye and Abdoulaye Faye (both Senegal). Like Arsenal, Pompey boss Harry Redknapp can at least draw comfort in the fact their most prolific hit man this season, Benjani, wont be required in the competition, as Zimbabwe also missed out on qualification. The Fratton Park club have been quick to seek cover for their departing players, adding the 22-year-old French international defender Lassana Diarra to their squad this week.
The Premiership and other top European leagues will gain encouragement from FIFA president Sepp Blatter’s view that the African Cup of Nations should be moved to June and July sooner rather than later. He has set the Confederation Football Africain (CAF) the challenge of moving the tournament to the summer months by 2016. That’s despite CAF’s insistence they want to keep the biennial competition in its original calendar position, claiming the weather in Africa is better for football then. Some signs of a compromise with football’s world governing body have been evident this week though, when CAF announced the African Cup of Nations will kick off ten days earlier in Angola in 2010. This will ensure players return to their clubs in good time ahead of Champions League and UEFA Cup matches.
The inconvenience felt by the Premiership’s high and mighty over the African Cup of Nations is set to run long after the February 10 final. Given the Premier League’s profile and power, it will be interesting to see just how long CAF can continue to frustrate England’s elite clubs with their defiance over a January tournament in the future.
© Andy Greeves & Soccerphile
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Saturday, February 11, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Reflection
Overall the competition will no doubt be deemed a success by the Local Organising Committee. They will be able to back up this statement with images of Egypt's sell out crowds and the excitement generated by the teams success. I wonder what the situation would have been if Egypt had fallen at the first hurdle?
Despite what you might think I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Egypt, as I had mixed with the locals and haggled my way around using my ever decreasing knowledge of Arabic. ( The more I used, the more problems I encountered. As people assumed I knew more - check the back of any guide book and that was the extent of my knowledge). The people are eager to create a good impression of their country but many are more interested in pestering you for money. My purchase of a student card from the S.F.A. proved a good investment as I used it a number of times to receive discount. (I did pay baksheesh to make up the difference - honest!).
The fact that Egypt received no votes for a recent World Cup bid was proved to be the right decision. As despite a high presence of local volunteers at the stadiums the infrastructure left a lot to be desired. At the first game exit gates were still locked at the end of the game. The presence of the Guantanamo supporters led to no go areas in stadiums and caused problems for the few spectators. The road and rail system which I tested, did get me to all the destinations but there was insufficient signposting (i.e. none) to help out. This was a challenge I enjoyed but I am not sure that if there had been thousands of visiting fans they would have felt the same way.
The sales of tickets were particularly poor, and the LOC's idea to bring in the military ridiculed their comments about the tournament capturing the nations imagination. At all games apart from the Cairo International Stadium, at least one end was filled by the Guantanamo supporters. In a bid to improve attendances further, fans were let in for free for the third games in the qualifying groups. This didn't stop the locals who held tickets trying to sell them to unsuspecting foreigners!
The standard of refereeing was a welcome surprise to me. Despite some dubious off side calls in the opening games, the referees looked to keep the focus on the game of football and not on themselves . The home team did receive a number of favourable decisions most notably the referee in the Senegal match appearing to award a penalty and then change his mind.
The World Cup teams failed to capitalise on their qualifying campaigns. Only Ivory Coast can be considered a real threat for the finals in this summer, in both games against Egypt they played the better football and in Arouna Kone had one of the best players at the competition. The Togoans in particular looked weak and will have to vastly improve to ensure they are not embarrassed in Germany. The Tunisians decision to play a weakened team against Guinea appeared to backfire as they struggled in their next game to show the fluency seen in their opening two fixtures.
Ghana looked to have a good balance but failed to fulfill their promise by being unable to win when it mattered against Zimbabwe, a performance that asked questions of the managers motivational skills. Angola started strongly against Cameroon and gave a good account of themselves against the best team in the competition. The next game against Congo saw them struggle to a goalless draw against a side reduced to 10 men after only 20 minutes.
Watching Egypt's games it was apparent early on that something was wrong with Mido. Game by game the length of his shorts increased. What we didn't realise that his feet were growing at the same time and by the time he was substituted against Senegal it would appear that he was too big for his boots!
Attending the African Cup of Nations has been a great way of meeting the people and seeing some of the wonderful sights in Egypt. Would I come back? Would you believe I already have.
Insh'alitalia (Italian Airlines willing). I was due to fly home on the 04.00a.m flight after the finals, in a bid to see my own team that day. I left Cairo to the sounds that became familiar immediately upon my arrival - the beeping of car horns, but this time celebrating their 5th victory in the African Nations Cup (Don't remind an Egyptian that only 3 teams took part in the first two competitions that they won).
I mentioned the problems I had on the way out, and I have since been made aware that two friends on different flights had actually missed games due to maintenance problems and strikes at Alitalia delaying flights. So I was uncertain if I would be able to make my journey according to the proposed schedule. My flight departed on time, but after 35 minutes the captain announced that we were to return to Cairo as a passenger was unwell. The plane duly returned and there I was back in Cairo only one hour after leaving. The passenger was fine and we resumed our journey. The delay simply meant I had to run to make my connection in Milan and the flight arrived home on time. Due to missing my early morning prayer call, I forgot to say prayers for my team and they duly put on a show which left few spectators with much faith in them.
Maybe this Inshallah stuff works! So, Inshallah my next trip is off to Germany in the summer. Anyone got any spare tickets!
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Despite what you might think I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Egypt, as I had mixed with the locals and haggled my way around using my ever decreasing knowledge of Arabic. ( The more I used, the more problems I encountered. As people assumed I knew more - check the back of any guide book and that was the extent of my knowledge). The people are eager to create a good impression of their country but many are more interested in pestering you for money. My purchase of a student card from the S.F.A. proved a good investment as I used it a number of times to receive discount. (I did pay baksheesh to make up the difference - honest!).
The fact that Egypt received no votes for a recent World Cup bid was proved to be the right decision. As despite a high presence of local volunteers at the stadiums the infrastructure left a lot to be desired. At the first game exit gates were still locked at the end of the game. The presence of the Guantanamo supporters led to no go areas in stadiums and caused problems for the few spectators. The road and rail system which I tested, did get me to all the destinations but there was insufficient signposting (i.e. none) to help out. This was a challenge I enjoyed but I am not sure that if there had been thousands of visiting fans they would have felt the same way.
The sales of tickets were particularly poor, and the LOC's idea to bring in the military ridiculed their comments about the tournament capturing the nations imagination. At all games apart from the Cairo International Stadium, at least one end was filled by the Guantanamo supporters. In a bid to improve attendances further, fans were let in for free for the third games in the qualifying groups. This didn't stop the locals who held tickets trying to sell them to unsuspecting foreigners!
The standard of refereeing was a welcome surprise to me. Despite some dubious off side calls in the opening games, the referees looked to keep the focus on the game of football and not on themselves . The home team did receive a number of favourable decisions most notably the referee in the Senegal match appearing to award a penalty and then change his mind.
The World Cup teams failed to capitalise on their qualifying campaigns. Only Ivory Coast can be considered a real threat for the finals in this summer, in both games against Egypt they played the better football and in Arouna Kone had one of the best players at the competition. The Togoans in particular looked weak and will have to vastly improve to ensure they are not embarrassed in Germany. The Tunisians decision to play a weakened team against Guinea appeared to backfire as they struggled in their next game to show the fluency seen in their opening two fixtures.
Ghana looked to have a good balance but failed to fulfill their promise by being unable to win when it mattered against Zimbabwe, a performance that asked questions of the managers motivational skills. Angola started strongly against Cameroon and gave a good account of themselves against the best team in the competition. The next game against Congo saw them struggle to a goalless draw against a side reduced to 10 men after only 20 minutes.
Watching Egypt's games it was apparent early on that something was wrong with Mido. Game by game the length of his shorts increased. What we didn't realise that his feet were growing at the same time and by the time he was substituted against Senegal it would appear that he was too big for his boots!
Attending the African Cup of Nations has been a great way of meeting the people and seeing some of the wonderful sights in Egypt. Would I come back? Would you believe I already have.
Insh'alitalia (Italian Airlines willing). I was due to fly home on the 04.00a.m flight after the finals, in a bid to see my own team that day. I left Cairo to the sounds that became familiar immediately upon my arrival - the beeping of car horns, but this time celebrating their 5th victory in the African Nations Cup (Don't remind an Egyptian that only 3 teams took part in the first two competitions that they won).
I mentioned the problems I had on the way out, and I have since been made aware that two friends on different flights had actually missed games due to maintenance problems and strikes at Alitalia delaying flights. So I was uncertain if I would be able to make my journey according to the proposed schedule. My flight departed on time, but after 35 minutes the captain announced that we were to return to Cairo as a passenger was unwell. The plane duly returned and there I was back in Cairo only one hour after leaving. The passenger was fine and we resumed our journey. The delay simply meant I had to run to make my connection in Milan and the flight arrived home on time. Due to missing my early morning prayer call, I forgot to say prayers for my team and they duly put on a show which left few spectators with much faith in them.
Maybe this Inshallah stuff works! So, Inshallah my next trip is off to Germany in the summer. Anyone got any spare tickets!
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Friday, February 10, 2006
Egypt 2006: Mark Bright's View
On the eve of the African Cup of Nations final, the BBC’s Mark Bright has told Soccerphile he thinks the tournament has been a mixed bag.
The face of the corporation’s African football coverage in recent years told Soccerphile that what impressive showings there have been in Egypt have been equally matched by the disappointments.
“Guinea played well,” said Bright, while “Egypt and Cameroon along with Cote d’Ivoire have played the best football, but I did not think Nigeria or Senegal played well at all and Togo were poor.”
World Cup qualifiers Togo, who boasted Emmanuel Sheyi Adebayor, the top scorer in Africa’s World Cup qualifying groups, exited the tournament with three straight losses and not a little friction in their dressing room.
“Adebayor wreaked havoc in the camp by all accounts, nobody has a good word to say about him.” Bright commented.
Togo and Angola, both qualifers for Germany, failed to make the last eight in the African Cup of Nations, along with Ghana, whom Bright thought were “easily forgettable! They were unimpressive.”
“Their midfield trio missing cost them any real chance,” he went on. I can't see them doing that well based on how they played here. Plus Kingston will be suspended for the first 3 games having been sent off.”
In response to having his injury absence questioned by Ghana manager Radomir Dujkovic, Michael Essien issued a remarkable press release insisting he looked on his coach, “as my father” and asked for the fans’ prayers “at this difficult time.”
“I’m not sure how much the coach is to blame,” thought Bright on reflection. “I think it is too easy to blame him. Essien obviously was a factor but I didn't see anything that would frighten anyone at the World Cup.”
Bright starred for seven clubs in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s and most famously formed one half of Crystal Palace’s ‘Wright & Bright’ strike partnership alongside future Arsenal legend Ian Wright.
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The face of the corporation’s African football coverage in recent years told Soccerphile that what impressive showings there have been in Egypt have been equally matched by the disappointments.
“Guinea played well,” said Bright, while “Egypt and Cameroon along with Cote d’Ivoire have played the best football, but I did not think Nigeria or Senegal played well at all and Togo were poor.”
World Cup qualifiers Togo, who boasted Emmanuel Sheyi Adebayor, the top scorer in Africa’s World Cup qualifying groups, exited the tournament with three straight losses and not a little friction in their dressing room.
“Adebayor wreaked havoc in the camp by all accounts, nobody has a good word to say about him.” Bright commented.
Togo and Angola, both qualifers for Germany, failed to make the last eight in the African Cup of Nations, along with Ghana, whom Bright thought were “easily forgettable! They were unimpressive.”
“Their midfield trio missing cost them any real chance,” he went on. I can't see them doing that well based on how they played here. Plus Kingston will be suspended for the first 3 games having been sent off.”
In response to having his injury absence questioned by Ghana manager Radomir Dujkovic, Michael Essien issued a remarkable press release insisting he looked on his coach, “as my father” and asked for the fans’ prayers “at this difficult time.”
“I’m not sure how much the coach is to blame,” thought Bright on reflection. “I think it is too easy to blame him. Essien obviously was a factor but I didn't see anything that would frighten anyone at the World Cup.”
Bright starred for seven clubs in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s and most famously formed one half of Crystal Palace’s ‘Wright & Bright’ strike partnership alongside future Arsenal legend Ian Wright.
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Thursday, February 9, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Talk like an Egyptian
As the tournament reaches its last days I felt it was time to reflect on life in Egypt and how much having the knowledge I have now, would have helped me when I first set foot here in Egypt.
Arriving in Cairo you are thrown at the mercy of the locals who will try out every scam they can think of in order to get you to part with your cash. They will give very little away as they realise the power they have over you, a stranger in a foreign land.
"Welcome to Egypt". A standard greeting given by any Egyptian looking for your money. Engaging in conversation will see them then ask you your name and where you are from. Don't be surprised if next time you pass the same area someone else calls out your name and says "Remember me?" the chances are the first person you spoke to has briefed the neighbourhood and now your personal details are no longer protected by the Data Protection Act.
By now I am no longer surprised that when someone wants to show me where I want to go that the route taken is by way of their families papyrus shop which sells quality hand painted pharaonic scenes.
The number of people using these lines, has led me to the conclusion that somewhere in Egypt there is an English language school where these lines are taught. Once they have learnt how to repeat these lines they seem to think that they will then be able to make their fortune out of unsuspecting tourists. As a result they leave the school without finishing the course. This results in a conversation where they repeat the lines they have learnt over and over, whilst you at first think that they may be able to help and may engage in conversation. Which you will soon realise is going nowhere.
Policemen and young children alike will give the game away as they shout, in your wake, "Hallo, money". Seeing you as a commodity that they want to get a piece of.
"Just wait 5 Egyptian minutes," the guides will tell you as they explain the attractions in front of you. They then add "5 Egyptian minutes is maybe 5 hours in your own country" If only I had known this when I first went to the Ministry of Youth that first morning.
"Get, to the ground early". This is no joke, throughout my stay here I will have spent over a day solely inside the Cairo International stadium. Turning up three hours before the kick off has become normal for any Egypt game.
"The price for this is..."Do not believe a word, every time there has been additional extras along the way. The Egyptians don't understand that we like to know how much things cost and that if agreed that is what we will pay. They think they can add on extras later and everyone will still be happy. Haggling is a way of life and exorbitant prices will be set in the hope that you are too weary to join in.
"Get a taxi" In response to any request for directions and asking where the local transport is, this is the answer they will give. Even the guide to this competition is misleading in giving distances to the stadiums. It states that in Ismailia the stadium is 13km away. In actual fact it is near the town centre and walking distance from the train station.
These scenarios are common around the world. However I do believe that Egypt is one place where these scams are practised from a young age, and that the majority of people leave school before finishing.
Being aware that this is how things work from the start meant that I had no problems dealing with life here in Cairo. I have the added bonus that now I can describe events depicted in the pharaonic reliefs. Haven't got round to working out the hieroglyphics yet as I am still trying to remember the arabic numbers.
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Arriving in Cairo you are thrown at the mercy of the locals who will try out every scam they can think of in order to get you to part with your cash. They will give very little away as they realise the power they have over you, a stranger in a foreign land.
"Welcome to Egypt". A standard greeting given by any Egyptian looking for your money. Engaging in conversation will see them then ask you your name and where you are from. Don't be surprised if next time you pass the same area someone else calls out your name and says "Remember me?" the chances are the first person you spoke to has briefed the neighbourhood and now your personal details are no longer protected by the Data Protection Act.
By now I am no longer surprised that when someone wants to show me where I want to go that the route taken is by way of their families papyrus shop which sells quality hand painted pharaonic scenes.
The number of people using these lines, has led me to the conclusion that somewhere in Egypt there is an English language school where these lines are taught. Once they have learnt how to repeat these lines they seem to think that they will then be able to make their fortune out of unsuspecting tourists. As a result they leave the school without finishing the course. This results in a conversation where they repeat the lines they have learnt over and over, whilst you at first think that they may be able to help and may engage in conversation. Which you will soon realise is going nowhere.
Policemen and young children alike will give the game away as they shout, in your wake, "Hallo, money". Seeing you as a commodity that they want to get a piece of.
"Just wait 5 Egyptian minutes," the guides will tell you as they explain the attractions in front of you. They then add "5 Egyptian minutes is maybe 5 hours in your own country" If only I had known this when I first went to the Ministry of Youth that first morning.
"Get, to the ground early". This is no joke, throughout my stay here I will have spent over a day solely inside the Cairo International stadium. Turning up three hours before the kick off has become normal for any Egypt game.
"The price for this is..."Do not believe a word, every time there has been additional extras along the way. The Egyptians don't understand that we like to know how much things cost and that if agreed that is what we will pay. They think they can add on extras later and everyone will still be happy. Haggling is a way of life and exorbitant prices will be set in the hope that you are too weary to join in.
"Get a taxi" In response to any request for directions and asking where the local transport is, this is the answer they will give. Even the guide to this competition is misleading in giving distances to the stadiums. It states that in Ismailia the stadium is 13km away. In actual fact it is near the town centre and walking distance from the train station.
These scenarios are common around the world. However I do believe that Egypt is one place where these scams are practised from a young age, and that the majority of people leave school before finishing.
Being aware that this is how things work from the start meant that I had no problems dealing with life here in Cairo. I have the added bonus that now I can describe events depicted in the pharaonic reliefs. Haven't got round to working out the hieroglyphics yet as I am still trying to remember the arabic numbers.
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Wednesday, February 8, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - False Gods
An ill wind blows through Cairo (curtailing sightseeing) this morning. Newspapers are carried into the air and swirl upwards their destination uncertain. You close your eyes as you walk down the street to avoid the dust. Your own future uncertain as your visibility is reduced and the motorists are lying in wait, but give themselves away at the last second by repeatedly using their horns.
The Egyptians are delighted that their faith has been rewarded by a place in the final of this competition. They see this as just reward for a team led by their star Mido (peace be upon him). Going into this competition I got the feeling that they did not trust the team but that they worshipped Mido. When stopped in the street and asked about the team the Egyptians would always ask for an opinion on Mido. "Mido, the terrible" (the expression used in the newspapers as a compliment) my reply, left them confused as they felt I had not yet started to answer the question.
When pressed further if you did not issue compliments they would stare at you and insist that you explain further whilst they would then insist in proving that this is the best player they have ever seen. This attitude is prevalent in society here and anything that does not meet their way of thinking is seen as wrong and unacceptable, and of course will be dealt with in time by you know who.
The manner in which they reached the final may leave them a little confused as Mido did his best to ruin everything by having a blazing row with coach Shehata, when substituted. This could have undone everything the team had worked so hard for. Mido's replacement Amr Zaki, showing far more composure, concentrated on matters on the pitch and scored immediately after coming on. At the same time reducing Mido to a mere mortal bystander.
I understand that the Egyptians have already thrown him out of the squad and suspended him for six months. In this competition they have shown that they are not a one man team and that players compliment each other. Whilst there have been strong individual performances from Barakat, Aboutrika, Motaeb and Said it is the teamwork they have shown that has seen them overwhelm opposition and leave them with 4 wins and a draw and a goal tally of 12 for and only 3 against.
The coach Shehata should be congratulated for the achievement and for his brave decision to register his own free speech and show the world that this is the way forward.
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The Egyptians are delighted that their faith has been rewarded by a place in the final of this competition. They see this as just reward for a team led by their star Mido (peace be upon him). Going into this competition I got the feeling that they did not trust the team but that they worshipped Mido. When stopped in the street and asked about the team the Egyptians would always ask for an opinion on Mido. "Mido, the terrible" (the expression used in the newspapers as a compliment) my reply, left them confused as they felt I had not yet started to answer the question.
When pressed further if you did not issue compliments they would stare at you and insist that you explain further whilst they would then insist in proving that this is the best player they have ever seen. This attitude is prevalent in society here and anything that does not meet their way of thinking is seen as wrong and unacceptable, and of course will be dealt with in time by you know who.
The manner in which they reached the final may leave them a little confused as Mido did his best to ruin everything by having a blazing row with coach Shehata, when substituted. This could have undone everything the team had worked so hard for. Mido's replacement Amr Zaki, showing far more composure, concentrated on matters on the pitch and scored immediately after coming on. At the same time reducing Mido to a mere mortal bystander.
I understand that the Egyptians have already thrown him out of the squad and suspended him for six months. In this competition they have shown that they are not a one man team and that players compliment each other. Whilst there have been strong individual performances from Barakat, Aboutrika, Motaeb and Said it is the teamwork they have shown that has seen them overwhelm opposition and leave them with 4 wins and a draw and a goal tally of 12 for and only 3 against.
The coach Shehata should be congratulated for the achievement and for his brave decision to register his own free speech and show the world that this is the way forward.
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Tuesday, February 7, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Health and Safety
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Health and Safety
FIFA have announced that they were concerned that at the recent Egypt v Cote D'Ivoire game there appeared to be people sitting in the aisles, obstructing gangways and making it difficult for people to leave the stadium in the result of an emergency situation. This led to a statement being issued in which they highlighted how they wished to educate the Egyptians, to reduce the possibilities of any accidents.
I can confirm that this has been common place at all stadiums, despite the grounds not always being full. Often parts of the stadium have been off limits, either not opened or occupied by the Guantanamo supporters, thus creating problems in the areas where genuine spectators have been allowed access.
After two weeks now in Egypt I think that this is only a minor concern and that they should be having a look at the bigger picture. You could start with a trip to the stadium where the following hazards may be encountered.
To start with negotiating lifts that have a mind of their own. Where the gap between the floor and the bottom of the lift allows a clear offside decision to be made as often there is a 6 inch gap between the floor and the lift. These same lifts are known to stop in between floors and regularly the lights will go out.
Walking out on the streets you immediately take in the Cairo air, which within minutes leaves you feeling that you need to brush your teeth, or as a smoker put it to me that he had 20 cigarettes for breakfast. Seeing bread transported through the streets, made me realise how they got that Cairo taste into it.
The pavement often has unprotected man holes which collect rubbish. Everyday folk ignore them and manage to negotiate them. Whilst wherever work is taking place on the roads rubble is left at the side of road and construction workers will throw down large objects, from great heights, on to piles of sand. With no protection for pedestrians or even motorists.
I read an article in the paper recently which highlighted further my feelings on the roads, as it finished with the line "death is inevitable" referring to pedestrians risking life and limb to cross the road.
The cars on the road use their horns instead of brakes and headlights are switched on at night only to add more impact to the blaring horn to move the car in front out of the way.
The public transport seems to think that it will be fined for loitering if they actually come to a halt. People are seen regularly running after and jumping on the bus whilst coming of the bus you take your life in your own hands as your momentum sends you running, often into the oncoming traffic. Even on the metro the doors remain open for the briefest of periods and you have to fight to get on or of before the door shuts.
Having negotiated these obstacles the spectators are happy to sit in the aisles as in comparison, as it is no more dangerous that the rest of their day.
If FIFA thinks that there is a problem they should be confirming with the Egyptians the number of tickets sold for each section and making sure that no one enters without a ticket. By doing this then everyone would know where they stood. On the eve of the Egypt v Congo game an e-mail was sent to all ticketholders who had purchased tickets over the internet advising them that the gates of the stadium would once again close at 4p.m. Once again valid ticketholders were denied entry to the stadium.
In Egypt H & S, simply stands for happy and smiling. Despite all the hazards in peoples way they overcome them in everyday life. Right now the people of Egypt are proud of their teams performance. The win over a weakened Ivory Coast side gave them great heart and now as the tournaments top scorers and with home advantage they are looking forward to winning their 5th title this coming Friday. Inshallah.
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FIFA have announced that they were concerned that at the recent Egypt v Cote D'Ivoire game there appeared to be people sitting in the aisles, obstructing gangways and making it difficult for people to leave the stadium in the result of an emergency situation. This led to a statement being issued in which they highlighted how they wished to educate the Egyptians, to reduce the possibilities of any accidents.
I can confirm that this has been common place at all stadiums, despite the grounds not always being full. Often parts of the stadium have been off limits, either not opened or occupied by the Guantanamo supporters, thus creating problems in the areas where genuine spectators have been allowed access.
After two weeks now in Egypt I think that this is only a minor concern and that they should be having a look at the bigger picture. You could start with a trip to the stadium where the following hazards may be encountered.
To start with negotiating lifts that have a mind of their own. Where the gap between the floor and the bottom of the lift allows a clear offside decision to be made as often there is a 6 inch gap between the floor and the lift. These same lifts are known to stop in between floors and regularly the lights will go out.
Walking out on the streets you immediately take in the Cairo air, which within minutes leaves you feeling that you need to brush your teeth, or as a smoker put it to me that he had 20 cigarettes for breakfast. Seeing bread transported through the streets, made me realise how they got that Cairo taste into it.
The pavement often has unprotected man holes which collect rubbish. Everyday folk ignore them and manage to negotiate them. Whilst wherever work is taking place on the roads rubble is left at the side of road and construction workers will throw down large objects, from great heights, on to piles of sand. With no protection for pedestrians or even motorists.
I read an article in the paper recently which highlighted further my feelings on the roads, as it finished with the line "death is inevitable" referring to pedestrians risking life and limb to cross the road.
The cars on the road use their horns instead of brakes and headlights are switched on at night only to add more impact to the blaring horn to move the car in front out of the way.
The public transport seems to think that it will be fined for loitering if they actually come to a halt. People are seen regularly running after and jumping on the bus whilst coming of the bus you take your life in your own hands as your momentum sends you running, often into the oncoming traffic. Even on the metro the doors remain open for the briefest of periods and you have to fight to get on or of before the door shuts.
Having negotiated these obstacles the spectators are happy to sit in the aisles as in comparison, as it is no more dangerous that the rest of their day.
If FIFA thinks that there is a problem they should be confirming with the Egyptians the number of tickets sold for each section and making sure that no one enters without a ticket. By doing this then everyone would know where they stood. On the eve of the Egypt v Congo game an e-mail was sent to all ticketholders who had purchased tickets over the internet advising them that the gates of the stadium would once again close at 4p.m. Once again valid ticketholders were denied entry to the stadium.
In Egypt H & S, simply stands for happy and smiling. Despite all the hazards in peoples way they overcome them in everyday life. Right now the people of Egypt are proud of their teams performance. The win over a weakened Ivory Coast side gave them great heart and now as the tournaments top scorers and with home advantage they are looking forward to winning their 5th title this coming Friday. Inshallah.
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Saturday, February 4, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Only fools and camels
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Only fools and camels
After 11 days of non-stop football, at last a break. I used the opportunity to head for the pyramids, and also take in the Sufi dancing. The Sufi's follow a Muslim mystic order who spin and whirl to attain a trance like state, it reminded me off defenders who have come up against Eto'o in this competition.
Giza pyramids lie just 8km south west of Cairo and are reached by a dual carriageway that runs right past them. Not content with just driving up to them I opted to take the classic approach and went to hire a camel for the day. As with everything in Egypt the price seems to be negotiable and there are always hidden extras. As well as this baksheesh is expected at every turn for even the smallest of service. The price was agreed and during the course of the trip extras were added. More money was required for entry to the pyramids, then for the guide and the boys looking after the camel. By now I am well aware that the Egyptian salesmen will never give you the full story and will always be looking for more money. The police at Giza could be seen openly counting their takings for the day from what appeared to be on the spot fines for cutting corners and causing damage to the monuments.
It has been the same with asking directions. The standard reply is that wherever you ask to go you will need a taxi. In some cases this may well be true. But in a number of cases the intended destination has been a five minute walk away. Even if you ask for the mini-bus station for the local bus they will deny that their is one, until you point one out.
The art of the salesman is demonstrated in every walk of life. Everyone is looking for their cut. Whenever anything is being sold without a price the Egyptians will ask for what we think is a fair price. Bearing in mind that some people work for the equivalent of 15 British pounds, this is understandable, and chances are that what we offer is a kings ransom. One of the many other ploys frequently used is that they will never have any change. There are times when I think I am getting used to life her for example when I am congratulated for having exactly the right amount of money in my hand to pay. The reason they are so happy is that it is too much.
Being aware of these facts I went off to more Pyramids at Dashur and Saqqara. These are around 35km from Cairo and everyone recommends taking a taxi. I took the metro to the end of the line and wandered round the streets of Helwan. It was a pleasant change as I was totally ignored by the locals unlike everywhere else I have been. Using the multi lingual skills I have acquired over the years I pointed out what I would like for breakfast from a bakers. (Still need to work on my numbers as I asked for 2 fig rolls and got eight.)
Now I needed a taxi as the pyramids were still 10km away and they cover a vast site. Decided to ensure that the driver spoke English so I could be confident that he would wait for me. After 10 minutes I eventually found a driver for the day, Salah warmly greeted me and we set off. Five minutes down the road he had to stop to ask for directions. I realised he had never been here before and invited him to join me at the first pyramid. He gladly accepted, although I think he changed his mind during our trip inside. The pharaohs of Egypt are to be respected and have ensured that everyone who visits them bows, by making the passage to their tomb around a metre high. Crouched down we descended the 63 metres and 118 steps . I looked back up the shaft to see he had stopped and was gasping for breath. Worried that firstly I might need to carry him out and secondly that I might lose my driver for the day I told him to stay where he was and return if it was too much. We emerged unscathed but that was the last time he came with me.
The next pyramid was a more remote sight, and there were only the tourist police in evidence. One mounted on a camel and the other calling over to me asking if I wanted help. He told me all about the pyramid and its surroundings and then asked if I wanted to ride the police camel. Can you imagine at home, you get to the match early, there is no one about and the mounted policeman offers you a ride on his horse! Of course I took him up on this offer and rode round the pyramids while the police with gun in hand ensured I did not make off for the desert. I had the necessary small change and left my baksheesh as the police held their finger to their mouth so that I told no-one!
Another experience was being led to a papyrus shop where in open conversation my host came out with "luvverly, jubberly" during his sales patter. Somewhat taken aback by this I looked out side for the reliant robin, but it was no where to be seen.
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After 11 days of non-stop football, at last a break. I used the opportunity to head for the pyramids, and also take in the Sufi dancing. The Sufi's follow a Muslim mystic order who spin and whirl to attain a trance like state, it reminded me off defenders who have come up against Eto'o in this competition.
Giza pyramids lie just 8km south west of Cairo and are reached by a dual carriageway that runs right past them. Not content with just driving up to them I opted to take the classic approach and went to hire a camel for the day. As with everything in Egypt the price seems to be negotiable and there are always hidden extras. As well as this baksheesh is expected at every turn for even the smallest of service. The price was agreed and during the course of the trip extras were added. More money was required for entry to the pyramids, then for the guide and the boys looking after the camel. By now I am well aware that the Egyptian salesmen will never give you the full story and will always be looking for more money. The police at Giza could be seen openly counting their takings for the day from what appeared to be on the spot fines for cutting corners and causing damage to the monuments.
It has been the same with asking directions. The standard reply is that wherever you ask to go you will need a taxi. In some cases this may well be true. But in a number of cases the intended destination has been a five minute walk away. Even if you ask for the mini-bus station for the local bus they will deny that their is one, until you point one out.
The art of the salesman is demonstrated in every walk of life. Everyone is looking for their cut. Whenever anything is being sold without a price the Egyptians will ask for what we think is a fair price. Bearing in mind that some people work for the equivalent of 15 British pounds, this is understandable, and chances are that what we offer is a kings ransom. One of the many other ploys frequently used is that they will never have any change. There are times when I think I am getting used to life her for example when I am congratulated for having exactly the right amount of money in my hand to pay. The reason they are so happy is that it is too much.
Being aware of these facts I went off to more Pyramids at Dashur and Saqqara. These are around 35km from Cairo and everyone recommends taking a taxi. I took the metro to the end of the line and wandered round the streets of Helwan. It was a pleasant change as I was totally ignored by the locals unlike everywhere else I have been. Using the multi lingual skills I have acquired over the years I pointed out what I would like for breakfast from a bakers. (Still need to work on my numbers as I asked for 2 fig rolls and got eight.)
Now I needed a taxi as the pyramids were still 10km away and they cover a vast site. Decided to ensure that the driver spoke English so I could be confident that he would wait for me. After 10 minutes I eventually found a driver for the day, Salah warmly greeted me and we set off. Five minutes down the road he had to stop to ask for directions. I realised he had never been here before and invited him to join me at the first pyramid. He gladly accepted, although I think he changed his mind during our trip inside. The pharaohs of Egypt are to be respected and have ensured that everyone who visits them bows, by making the passage to their tomb around a metre high. Crouched down we descended the 63 metres and 118 steps . I looked back up the shaft to see he had stopped and was gasping for breath. Worried that firstly I might need to carry him out and secondly that I might lose my driver for the day I told him to stay where he was and return if it was too much. We emerged unscathed but that was the last time he came with me.
The next pyramid was a more remote sight, and there were only the tourist police in evidence. One mounted on a camel and the other calling over to me asking if I wanted help. He told me all about the pyramid and its surroundings and then asked if I wanted to ride the police camel. Can you imagine at home, you get to the match early, there is no one about and the mounted policeman offers you a ride on his horse! Of course I took him up on this offer and rode round the pyramids while the police with gun in hand ensured I did not make off for the desert. I had the necessary small change and left my baksheesh as the police held their finger to their mouth so that I told no-one!
Another experience was being led to a papyrus shop where in open conversation my host came out with "luvverly, jubberly" during his sales patter. Somewhat taken aback by this I looked out side for the reliant robin, but it was no where to be seen.
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Wednesday, February 1, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Filling An Arab
Sampling the delights of food in a previously unexplored country is one of the pleasures the traveling fan can enjoy when starved of match action. So here are a few of my encounters with the local fare.
I did not expect the introduction at the opening game that I received. Due to the presence of Hosni Mubarak, I arrived at the stadium at 3p.m. some 4 hours before kick-off. I have heard various stories since, and it would appear that the Ministry of Youth refused to sell tickets for the match from 2.30 on match day. People were told they would not get to the stadium on time. (I would have told them that there ticket wouldn't be produced by the time the game kicked off). The latest time I have heard of anyone entering the stadium on that day was 4.30. So despite the fact that the ground was nowhere near full, the opening ceremony took place with fans who had tickets outside due to the security put in place for the day. For the recent group decider between Egypt & Cote D'Ivoire fans were refused entrance from 6p.m. despite holding valid match tickets.
So having come to the stadium myself from the Ministry of Youth, I had yet to have anything to eat. Ready to sample the local equivalent of the pies and Bovril served at home I was horrified that as well as sponsoring the event McDonalds also had franchises at the stadiums. One thing to avoid when going away is taking the easy option and going there, unless it is an emergency! Somewhat disappointed I settled for a Cheeseburger and fries, followed by a Pepsi. I am pleased to report that other culinary experiences have had a far more local taste.
The first night, I arrived in Cairo I used my guide book to find a recommended restaurant. Starting at the beginning of the alphabet I headed for Alfy Beys. A place with a vintage decor run by strict Muslims. Arriving at the restaurant there was no one else there, undeterred,I enquired if they were serving food. A smile appeared on the old man's face and he ushered me in and sat me down. The place looked like it was the morning after a New Years Eve party as the remnants of 2006 in cotton wool could be seen sellotaped to the wall, whilst half deflated balloons were tied to bottles on the table. Looking down the menu I noticed firakh, I had read of this and so placed my order I received half a grilled chicken on a bed of rice with a mixed green salad. The food was fine, especially for the price. The waiter asked me if I wanted a drink and offered me a beer. I thought this strange, but as there was still no one else in the place I accepted. He called out the window and seconds later placed a can of Stella on my table. It would appear that the Egyptians have had their own brand of Stella since 1897. Back home I am aware of one person who is nicknamed after the drink due to his fondness for the stuff. I have yet to meet the Egyptian Stella.
Whilst in Port Said at a local restaurant we quickly made friends with the owners as three of us ordered one of everything on display to acquaint ourselves with the local fare. The highlight of the meal was the discovery of shakshouka. It consisted of chopped meat and tomato sauce in a casing of pastry. Another delight was koshari a mixture of rice, noodles and lentils topped with a tomato sauce.
On the streets the sound of hissing comes from Egyptians trying to catch your attention and give you their usual refrain, and the deep fat fryer which is used to make ta'amiyaa - which is a small round pattie made from fashed fava beans and herbs. The fava bean is a staple part of the diet here and breakfast often consists of a plate of fuul, the beans being mashed together and served on their own taste like Mexican refried beans.
For next to nothing you can purchase bananas, oranges, physalis, dates, nuts, different local breads including a date roll and brown sugar which looks like a lump of desert sand, but for someone with a sweet tooth tastes delicious.
In Alexandria, once again I headed for a small local restaurant enticed by the decor reminiscent of Yates's spit and sawdust days, I bravely sat down. The owner, quickly tried to tell me all about his home made soup, which was being made in a churn by the entrance, of course it was highly recommended, but I was somewhat unsure of what he was trying to describe. Sometimes a little information can be a dangerous thing and I declined his offer whilst a friend accepted. The soup arrived, and whilst hot and with a definite tang my friend was unable to name the taste. At this time I watched as out of the churn came a sheeps head followed by its lungs and esophagus, all attached. I am aware that it is impolite to show a Muslim the soles of your feet, but at this stage I was definitely thinking of showing them a clean pair of heels and leaving.
Whilst in the Windsor Bar I noticed that the spirits on display looked look those at home with all the major brands you would expect on display. Upon closer inspection it was clear that this was not the case, trying them enhanced this opinion. I reckoned that if people did drink this stuff then it would probably turn them blind anyway and that they then wouldn't mind as they couldn't read the labels.
One of the best parts in walking around the streets in Egypt is to come upon a juice shop. Fruits are stacked up outside and drinks are made fresh there and then in front of you. All the usual flavours are there, in addition to those we all know you can find fakhfkkina, a mixture of mango, strawberry and orange. Tamarind, Sobia made from coconut milk and my favourite Sugar Kane (a perfect end today).
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Sampling the delights of food in a previously unexplored country is one of the pleasures the traveling fan can enjoy when starved of match action. So here are a few of my encounters with the local fare.
I did not expect the introduction at the opening game that I received. Due to the presence of Hosni Mubarak, I arrived at the stadium at 3p.m. some 4 hours before kick-off. I have heard various stories since, and it would appear that the Ministry of Youth refused to sell tickets for the match from 2.30 on match day. People were told they would not get to the stadium on time. (I would have told them that there ticket wouldn't be produced by the time the game kicked off). The latest time I have heard of anyone entering the stadium on that day was 4.30. So despite the fact that the ground was nowhere near full, the opening ceremony took place with fans who had tickets outside due to the security put in place for the day. For the recent group decider between Egypt & Cote D'Ivoire fans were refused entrance from 6p.m. despite holding valid match tickets.
So having come to the stadium myself from the Ministry of Youth, I had yet to have anything to eat. Ready to sample the local equivalent of the pies and Bovril served at home I was horrified that as well as sponsoring the event McDonalds also had franchises at the stadiums. One thing to avoid when going away is taking the easy option and going there, unless it is an emergency! Somewhat disappointed I settled for a Cheeseburger and fries, followed by a Pepsi. I am pleased to report that other culinary experiences have had a far more local taste.
The first night, I arrived in Cairo I used my guide book to find a recommended restaurant. Starting at the beginning of the alphabet I headed for Alfy Beys. A place with a vintage decor run by strict Muslims. Arriving at the restaurant there was no one else there, undeterred,I enquired if they were serving food. A smile appeared on the old man's face and he ushered me in and sat me down. The place looked like it was the morning after a New Years Eve party as the remnants of 2006 in cotton wool could be seen sellotaped to the wall, whilst half deflated balloons were tied to bottles on the table. Looking down the menu I noticed firakh, I had read of this and so placed my order I received half a grilled chicken on a bed of rice with a mixed green salad. The food was fine, especially for the price. The waiter asked me if I wanted a drink and offered me a beer. I thought this strange, but as there was still no one else in the place I accepted. He called out the window and seconds later placed a can of Stella on my table. It would appear that the Egyptians have had their own brand of Stella since 1897. Back home I am aware of one person who is nicknamed after the drink due to his fondness for the stuff. I have yet to meet the Egyptian Stella.
Whilst in Port Said at a local restaurant we quickly made friends with the owners as three of us ordered one of everything on display to acquaint ourselves with the local fare. The highlight of the meal was the discovery of shakshouka. It consisted of chopped meat and tomato sauce in a casing of pastry. Another delight was koshari a mixture of rice, noodles and lentils topped with a tomato sauce.
On the streets the sound of hissing comes from Egyptians trying to catch your attention and give you their usual refrain, and the deep fat fryer which is used to make ta'amiyaa - which is a small round pattie made from fashed fava beans and herbs. The fava bean is a staple part of the diet here and breakfast often consists of a plate of fuul, the beans being mashed together and served on their own taste like Mexican refried beans.
For next to nothing you can purchase bananas, oranges, physalis, dates, nuts, different local breads including a date roll and brown sugar which looks like a lump of desert sand, but for someone with a sweet tooth tastes delicious.
In Alexandria, once again I headed for a small local restaurant enticed by the decor reminiscent of Yates's spit and sawdust days, I bravely sat down. The owner, quickly tried to tell me all about his home made soup, which was being made in a churn by the entrance, of course it was highly recommended, but I was somewhat unsure of what he was trying to describe. Sometimes a little information can be a dangerous thing and I declined his offer whilst a friend accepted. The soup arrived, and whilst hot and with a definite tang my friend was unable to name the taste. At this time I watched as out of the churn came a sheeps head followed by its lungs and esophagus, all attached. I am aware that it is impolite to show a Muslim the soles of your feet, but at this stage I was definitely thinking of showing them a clean pair of heels and leaving.
Whilst in the Windsor Bar I noticed that the spirits on display looked look those at home with all the major brands you would expect on display. Upon closer inspection it was clear that this was not the case, trying them enhanced this opinion. I reckoned that if people did drink this stuff then it would probably turn them blind anyway and that they then wouldn't mind as they couldn't read the labels.
One of the best parts in walking around the streets in Egypt is to come upon a juice shop. Fruits are stacked up outside and drinks are made fresh there and then in front of you. All the usual flavours are there, in addition to those we all know you can find fakhfkkina, a mixture of mango, strawberry and orange. Tamarind, Sobia made from coconut milk and my favourite Sugar Kane (a perfect end today).
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Monday, January 30, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - The five pillars v Two jumpers and a goalpost
Woken this morning by the call of the muezzin, blaring out "Allahu akbar" on a microphone at 5.30a.m. This got me thinking further about the similarity between Islam and football. The muezzin will call people to prayers five times a day every day, at sunrise, noon, mid-afternoon, sunset and night. The timetable for these calls can be found in the daily papers. A more flexible timetable is adopted for football but details can also be found in the paper, for many everyday people participate in this form of religion through the television. Our TV listings page will show, Soccer AM, Football Focus, Match of the Day any live games and late night football from overseas. Other more devout followers, will also turn to the fixtures section and answer the call, sometimes by travelling vast distances.
Islam means 'submission' and the people are expected to observe the five pillars which form the basis of the religion. The first pillar is to publicly declare 'there is no God but Allah and Mohammed is his Prophet'. In football we will tell anyone that our team is better than anyone else's, no matter what our current league position is.
The second pillar, is to answer the call of the muezzin, and pray five times a day. (I answered this mornings call by asking him to be quiet). In football it is important to get your daily fix and an innovation of recent times has been the great ball in the sky - the satellite which provides non stop information.
The third pillar is to give alms for the propogation of Islam and to help the needy. In football this can be done by paying exorbitant amounts of money in the form of either match day admission fees or satellite subscription fees.
The fourth, states that Muslims must fast during daylight hours during the month of Ramadan. We must attempt, during the season which can run all year round, to watch every game we can live, if not then on TV and also read all about it in the various forms of media available. It is also important to ensure any conversation we have in the pub is based around our religion.
The fifth and final pillar is the haj, the pilgrimage to Mecca. In football we all, wherever we are have a dream that one day we will be able to stand on the terraces and see our team in the final of our country's premier competition. With Islam there is a specific name given to those that have made such a journey, in football those people who attend such an event are known as 'lucky' by those who didn't get a ticket.
On a recent free morning, (my first and only to date) I took a walk down to the Citadel, built by Saladin in the 12th century. There you can find the mosque of Muhammad Ali, (I was attracted by the name as I am sure I have heard it somewhere before). The police presence outside was strong and inside police with guns were highly visible. The mosque itself was rather bland from the outside but inside its domes are decorated like a faberge egg. Outside in the courtyard you can see ( when it is not covered in scaffolding an ornate clock which was given by King Louis-Phillipe of France in exchange for the obelisk that stands in the Place de la Concorde. The clock was damaged upon delivery and has yet to be repaired!
The mosque dominates Cairo's skyline, but an even better view was had from the Muqattam hills which look back over the citadel. In the distance through the haze I had my first sight of two toblerones in the distance.
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Islam means 'submission' and the people are expected to observe the five pillars which form the basis of the religion. The first pillar is to publicly declare 'there is no God but Allah and Mohammed is his Prophet'. In football we will tell anyone that our team is better than anyone else's, no matter what our current league position is.
The second pillar, is to answer the call of the muezzin, and pray five times a day. (I answered this mornings call by asking him to be quiet). In football it is important to get your daily fix and an innovation of recent times has been the great ball in the sky - the satellite which provides non stop information.
The third pillar is to give alms for the propogation of Islam and to help the needy. In football this can be done by paying exorbitant amounts of money in the form of either match day admission fees or satellite subscription fees.
The fourth, states that Muslims must fast during daylight hours during the month of Ramadan. We must attempt, during the season which can run all year round, to watch every game we can live, if not then on TV and also read all about it in the various forms of media available. It is also important to ensure any conversation we have in the pub is based around our religion.
The fifth and final pillar is the haj, the pilgrimage to Mecca. In football we all, wherever we are have a dream that one day we will be able to stand on the terraces and see our team in the final of our country's premier competition. With Islam there is a specific name given to those that have made such a journey, in football those people who attend such an event are known as 'lucky' by those who didn't get a ticket.
On a recent free morning, (my first and only to date) I took a walk down to the Citadel, built by Saladin in the 12th century. There you can find the mosque of Muhammad Ali, (I was attracted by the name as I am sure I have heard it somewhere before). The police presence outside was strong and inside police with guns were highly visible. The mosque itself was rather bland from the outside but inside its domes are decorated like a faberge egg. Outside in the courtyard you can see ( when it is not covered in scaffolding an ornate clock which was given by King Louis-Phillipe of France in exchange for the obelisk that stands in the Place de la Concorde. The clock was damaged upon delivery and has yet to be repaired!
The mosque dominates Cairo's skyline, but an even better view was had from the Muqattam hills which look back over the citadel. In the distance through the haze I had my first sight of two toblerones in the distance.
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AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - The five pillars v Two jumpers and a goalpost
Woken this morning by the call of the muezzin, blaring out "Allahu akbar" on a microphone at 5.30a.m. This got me thinking further about the similarity between Islam and football. The muezzin will call people to prayers five times a day every day, at sunrise, noon, mid-afternoon, sunset and night. The timetable for these calls can be found in the daily papers. A more flexible timetable is adopted for football but details can also be found in the paper, for many everyday people participate in this form of religion through the television. Our TV listings page will show, Soccer AM, Football Focus, Match of the Day any live games and late night football from overseas. Other more devout followers, will also turn to the fixtures section and answer the call, sometimes by travelling vast distances.
Islam means 'submission' and the people are expected to observe the five pillars which form the basis of the religion. The first pillar is to publicly declare 'there is no God but Allah and Mohammed is his Prophet'. In football we will tell anyone that our team is better than anyone else's, no matter what our current league position is.
The second pillar, is to answer the call of the muezzin, and pray five times a day. (I answered this mornings call by asking him to be quiet). In football it is important to get your daily fix and an innovation of recent times has been the great ball in the sky - the satellite which provides non stop information.
The third pillar is to give alms for the propogation of Islam and to help the needy. In football this can be done by paying exorbitant amounts of money in the form of either match day admission fees or satellite subscription fees.
The fourth, states that Muslims must fast during daylight hours during the month of Ramadan. We must attempt, during the season which can run all year round, to watch every game we can live, if not then on TV and also read all about it in the various forms of media available. It is also important to ensure any conversation we have in the pub is based around our religion.
The fifth and final pillar is the haj, the pilgrimage to Mecca. In football we all, wherever we are have a dream that one day we will be able to stand on the terraces and see our team in the final of our country's premier competition. With Islam there is a specific name given to those that have made such a journey, in football those people who attend such an event are known as 'lucky' by those who didn't get a ticket.
On a recent free morning, (my first and only to date) I took a walk down to the Citadel, built by Saladin in the 12th century. There you can find the mosque of Muhammad Ali, (I was attracted by the name as I am sure I have heard it somewhere before). The police presence outside was strong and inside police with guns were highly visible. The mosque itself was rather bland from the outside but inside its domes are decorated like a faberge egg. Outside in the courtyard you can see ( when it is not covered in scaffolding an ornate clock which was given by King Louis-Phillipe of France in exchange for the obelisk that stands in the Place de la Concorde. The clock was damaged upon delivery and has yet to be repaired!
The mosque dominates Cairo's skyline, but an even better view was had from the Muqattam hills which look back over the citadel. In the distance through the haze I had my first sight of two toblerones in the distance.
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Islam means 'submission' and the people are expected to observe the five pillars which form the basis of the religion. The first pillar is to publicly declare 'there is no God but Allah and Mohammed is his Prophet'. In football we will tell anyone that our team is better than anyone else's, no matter what our current league position is.
The second pillar, is to answer the call of the muezzin, and pray five times a day. (I answered this mornings call by asking him to be quiet). In football it is important to get your daily fix and an innovation of recent times has been the great ball in the sky - the satellite which provides non stop information.
The third pillar is to give alms for the propogation of Islam and to help the needy. In football this can be done by paying exorbitant amounts of money in the form of either match day admission fees or satellite subscription fees.
The fourth, states that Muslims must fast during daylight hours during the month of Ramadan. We must attempt, during the season which can run all year round, to watch every game we can live, if not then on TV and also read all about it in the various forms of media available. It is also important to ensure any conversation we have in the pub is based around our religion.
The fifth and final pillar is the haj, the pilgrimage to Mecca. In football we all, wherever we are have a dream that one day we will be able to stand on the terraces and see our team in the final of our country's premier competition. With Islam there is a specific name given to those that have made such a journey, in football those people who attend such an event are known as 'lucky' by those who didn't get a ticket.
On a recent free morning, (my first and only to date) I took a walk down to the Citadel, built by Saladin in the 12th century. There you can find the mosque of Muhammad Ali, (I was attracted by the name as I am sure I have heard it somewhere before). The police presence outside was strong and inside police with guns were highly visible. The mosque itself was rather bland from the outside but inside its domes are decorated like a faberge egg. Outside in the courtyard you can see ( when it is not covered in scaffolding an ornate clock which was given by King Louis-Phillipe of France in exchange for the obelisk that stands in the Place de la Concorde. The clock was damaged upon delivery and has yet to be repaired!
The mosque dominates Cairo's skyline, but an even better view was had from the Muqattam hills which look back over the citadel. In the distance through the haze I had my first sight of two toblerones in the distance.
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Sunday, January 29, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Say a little prayer for Mi-do.
Whilst watching one game I was befriended by a local, who I noticed had a small dark patch on the middle of his forehead, I thought nothing of this, at the time.
During conversation he asked if I knew about Allah, concentrating on the game I explained that I didn't know about Islam. In response to this he turned to face me and made it clear that it was his job to tell me all I needed to know. Again that was easy - I was watching the match and didn't need to know anything.
He wouldn't let go.''You must know about Islam, what is you religion?'' Still being serious at this stage I tried to explain that I was not religious, but he was having none of it. ''OK, I am an atheist, an agnostic.'' He wouldn't let it lie. At this time the Guinea fans were entering the Tunisian end and amusing everyone with their antics and colourful costumes. Joining in the hilarity I confessed, ''my religion is football''.
''OK, so do you know about Mohammed?''
''Kallon?
"Mohammed, the prophet!''
''Profit. Yes I know he's been to a few clubs over time, I'm sure a profit has been made.''
By now the Guinean fans were packed into our section and we were having to stand to follow the game. The section was overflowing but there was a carnival atmosphere. He looked distinctly worried by the scenes of chaos unfolding in front of him. Seconds later it began to rain, this quelled the crowd and sent some dashing for cover beneath the stand. He turned round once again and said "See Mohammed made it rain for safety"
''Do you have a mobile phone?" (A question I am often asked. )
''Why are you going to call him?"
No explanation was given, to this and I can only assume that Mohammed has a premium line phone number that is a good money earner here in Egypt.
Relieved once again that I did not have a phone, he continued to look for an angle that he could engage me in conversation.
Finally he invited me for a cup of tea after the match finished, I declined his offer and held back on inviting him for a beer.
Later I noticed more and more Egyptians with a mark on their forehead, after wondering why this was I now have come to the conclusion that is a carpet burn, from overdoing the praying.
Egypt's performance against Morocco has emphasised the fact that this is a difficult group to qualify from, despite not scoring a goal the Moroccans have played well and could have won both games. Whilst Egypt fear the physical presence of the Ivorians.
During the half time break at the Morocco game the prayer booths in the stadium were subject to a heavy police presence as Egyptians swarmed into them and called on help from Allah to see their team win.
Those booths are going to be even busier today (Saturday 28th) as Egypt will need all the help they can get to secure a win that sees them into the Quarter Finals and avoid meeting Cameroon.
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During conversation he asked if I knew about Allah, concentrating on the game I explained that I didn't know about Islam. In response to this he turned to face me and made it clear that it was his job to tell me all I needed to know. Again that was easy - I was watching the match and didn't need to know anything.
He wouldn't let go.''You must know about Islam, what is you religion?'' Still being serious at this stage I tried to explain that I was not religious, but he was having none of it. ''OK, I am an atheist, an agnostic.'' He wouldn't let it lie. At this time the Guinea fans were entering the Tunisian end and amusing everyone with their antics and colourful costumes. Joining in the hilarity I confessed, ''my religion is football''.
''OK, so do you know about Mohammed?''
''Kallon?
"Mohammed, the prophet!''
''Profit. Yes I know he's been to a few clubs over time, I'm sure a profit has been made.''
By now the Guinean fans were packed into our section and we were having to stand to follow the game. The section was overflowing but there was a carnival atmosphere. He looked distinctly worried by the scenes of chaos unfolding in front of him. Seconds later it began to rain, this quelled the crowd and sent some dashing for cover beneath the stand. He turned round once again and said "See Mohammed made it rain for safety"
''Do you have a mobile phone?" (A question I am often asked. )
''Why are you going to call him?"
No explanation was given, to this and I can only assume that Mohammed has a premium line phone number that is a good money earner here in Egypt.
Relieved once again that I did not have a phone, he continued to look for an angle that he could engage me in conversation.
Finally he invited me for a cup of tea after the match finished, I declined his offer and held back on inviting him for a beer.
Later I noticed more and more Egyptians with a mark on their forehead, after wondering why this was I now have come to the conclusion that is a carpet burn, from overdoing the praying.
Egypt's performance against Morocco has emphasised the fact that this is a difficult group to qualify from, despite not scoring a goal the Moroccans have played well and could have won both games. Whilst Egypt fear the physical presence of the Ivorians.
During the half time break at the Morocco game the prayer booths in the stadium were subject to a heavy police presence as Egyptians swarmed into them and called on help from Allah to see their team win.
Those booths are going to be even busier today (Saturday 28th) as Egypt will need all the help they can get to secure a win that sees them into the Quarter Finals and avoid meeting Cameroon.
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Thursday, January 26, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Libya, ''go home''.
Libya became the first team to be eliminated from the competition after giving a good account of themselves against a strong Ivory Coast team. Libya fell behind to a Drogba tap in. With the ground virtually full the Egyptian supporters realised that if the result stayed as it was their team could be in trouble, as they have not beaten Morocco in the last 20 years. Chants of Lib-ya, Lib-ya, came from all parts of the ground,and the players responded managing to equalise and even go looking for a winner. Ivory Coast, upped the tempo and forced a winner.
During the warm up to the main event Egypt v Morocco, the noise sounded out once again but this time the home supporters were chanting for their own team. When the game kicked off the fans roar reached its peak after 13 seconds when the first chance of the game went begging. After this Morocco took control and dominated the first half. The Egyptians vented their anger and chants against Libya started during half time. Exchanging of pepsi bottles took place from Libyans below and their Egyptian counterparts above. Then the police moved into action using formations dating back to roman times. Firstly they lined up 3 to 4 deep at the bottom of the stand and then advanced en masse towards the retreating Libyan supporters who were quickly making an exit for themselves by removing seats and throwing them towards the police.
The police campaign came to a halt half way up the stand as they stood their ground the Libyans were becoming more adventurous but were being showered from above.Then the right flank charged up to the Libyans and quickly retreated. Two minutes later the section was empty and then the rest of Libyans quickly followed suite leaving the police to protect an area of empty seating.
This left the Libyan's as the first team and supporters to make their exit from the competition.
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During the warm up to the main event Egypt v Morocco, the noise sounded out once again but this time the home supporters were chanting for their own team. When the game kicked off the fans roar reached its peak after 13 seconds when the first chance of the game went begging. After this Morocco took control and dominated the first half. The Egyptians vented their anger and chants against Libya started during half time. Exchanging of pepsi bottles took place from Libyans below and their Egyptian counterparts above. Then the police moved into action using formations dating back to roman times. Firstly they lined up 3 to 4 deep at the bottom of the stand and then advanced en masse towards the retreating Libyan supporters who were quickly making an exit for themselves by removing seats and throwing them towards the police.
The police campaign came to a halt half way up the stand as they stood their ground the Libyans were becoming more adventurous but were being showered from above.Then the right flank charged up to the Libyans and quickly retreated. Two minutes later the section was empty and then the rest of Libyans quickly followed suite leaving the police to protect an area of empty seating.
This left the Libyan's as the first team and supporters to make their exit from the competition.
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Tuesday, January 24, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Around Egypt in 3 days.
The first round of matches have now been completed and I have followed the tournament as it has unfolded around the country.
Everything has fallen into place, sometimes more by luck than judgement, with a great deal of persistence thrown in. I opted to take the train out of Cairo to Alexandria, on Sunday and spent 10 minutes finding the correct place to buy my ticket. I approached what I understood to be the correct counter at Ramses station. After taking some time to get myself understood the clerk called a colleague over who instructed me to try the other side of the building. I left somewhat bemused and searched for this place. A member of the public came to my rescue and pointed me back to where I had come from! I made a beeline back to the same clerk who straight away produced the ticket I had asked for and even confirmed what I had asked for in English.
Taking the football out of Cairo has opened up the competition to other football hot beds in Egypt. In both Alexandria and Port Said the locals were out in force and provided competition for the visiting fans from other countries with their chants of Masr(Egypt).
The best support so far has come from the Guineans who entered the Alexandria Border Guard Stadium whilst the earlier game was still taking place. The terraces were already crowded but they poured in to the end behind one goal occupied by Tunisians. The Tunisians showed their disapproval by booing and waving the Guinea supporters away but led by a witch doctor and what looked like Babar the elephant, they continued to flood in packed this part of the stadium still further. They held their own and joined in the chaos that ensued with lots of chanting going on, once again, irrelevant to what was happening in the game. The local Egyptians being led by cheerleaders. Rent a crowd (from now on to be known as Guantanamo supporters due to their uniforms) cheering when ordered to. Finally the Tunisians who were delighted with what they saw after a shaky start and had some clinical finishing by Dos Santos to thank for the margin of their victory. The Zambians had by now disappeared back into the crowd and were not heard after they took an early lead.
Before the next match the Guinea supporters made their way to the other end of the stadium where their drums provided a lively background to a dull game. Whilst at the front of the stand a line up that any team would have been scared of danced away. After initially thinking that the South Africans should win this game I found myself hoping that the Guinea team would hold on, as their support had won me over. Even to the extent that I would rather we had the tournaments first goalless draw than South Africa score. This wasn't to be as the Guineans scored two late on for a memorable victory. On the way out a Minister from Guinea was seen being driven out and the crowd went wild, three of the supporters were on the front of the car as it tried to leave the stadium.
In Port Said, a town with a much more relaxed feel, the locals once again came out in force, although the majority of one end was left for the Guantanamo fans. The town used to enjoy a tax free status, but I was informed this was abolished in 2002. This act has affected the popularity of the President and during the second game whilst Senegal were struggling to break down Zimbabwe a poster of Hosni Mubarak himself was pointed out whilst a fan shouted 'we let Hosni in the stadium and the football is bad'.
Opted to take the coach back from Port Said to Cairo as the train would take four hours. The bus should take three. They didn't tell us that the time may vary according to the driver. As I watched from the front of the coach we went past all traffic, in either lane on the straight dual carriageway. Our drivers skills were such that on this same road he managed to negotiate a tricky chicane (which I couldn't see) whilst weaving in and out of two cars. The journey from Port Said to the Military stadium, which lies on the outskirts of Cairo had been done in two hours.
Now I have two days rest in Cairo before doing it all over again.
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Labels: Africa, Africa Nations Cup, Cairo, eqypt, Senegal, ticket
Sunday, January 22, 2006
AFRICAN CUP OF NATIONS - Ire In Cairo
The tournament is now well underway and regarded as a success here in Egypt with deserved praise being given for the opening ceremony. However claims that Egypt is in the grip of football fever and that grounds are packed to capacity much to the delight of the organising committee, seem somewhat hollow in reality.
The Cairo International Stadium can be reached by taking the Metro to Kubri-el-Qubi, then cross the tracks and follow the flyover for a walk of around 20 minutes. I did this and still made it to the stadium before 4p.m. on the opening day and sure enough the majority of the crowd were already there.I spoke to someone who got in at 4.15, but haven't heard whether or not the gates were closed at any time. It was noticeable that the ground hardly filled up after this time as seats were left vacant for the participants of the opening ceremony. The Libyan section, whilst boasting a strong contingent of around 2,ooo had room for many more.
There have been arrangements made to fill the grounds in Egypt by the same organising committee that issued the above statement. The people doing this are instantly recognisable by the different colours, they are wearing. Just think of the seats in Portugal, but this time they are human beings, conducted from the front of the stand. At last nights DR Congo v Togo game there was a constant din, in front of what was a crowd of around 4,000 interested spectators and maybe 7 or 8,000 members of rent a crowd. Who were of course making lots of noise totally out of keeping with what was happening on the pitch.
Looking back on the last few days I was interested to read some comments in the Egyptian press. - Mido 'the terrible'. (I know he missed a penalty, was substituted and hadn't scored in the previous two Nations Cups, but I feel they were a bit harsh on him!)
Then there was the case of the Libyas Brazilian keeper, Agustini. Who showed his Latin temperament to get sent off. If only he had kept quiet they wouldn't have known he was Brazilian and he might have stayed on.
As for my tickets , and hence the ire. I returned to the Ministry of Youth expecting to walk in and walk out. It wasn't to be. The warning signs were there when I was immediately offered a cup of coffee. I was able to talk to other spectators and members of the media that I had also seen the previous day. So I wasn't the only one having problems. After three hours and one orange juice my remaining tickets, somewhat bedraggled were produced. By this time it was 1.15 and kick off for the Morocco v Ivory Coast was 2. Faced with no choice I had to give in and get the taxi there.
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The Cairo International Stadium can be reached by taking the Metro to Kubri-el-Qubi, then cross the tracks and follow the flyover for a walk of around 20 minutes. I did this and still made it to the stadium before 4p.m. on the opening day and sure enough the majority of the crowd were already there.I spoke to someone who got in at 4.15, but haven't heard whether or not the gates were closed at any time. It was noticeable that the ground hardly filled up after this time as seats were left vacant for the participants of the opening ceremony. The Libyan section, whilst boasting a strong contingent of around 2,ooo had room for many more.
There have been arrangements made to fill the grounds in Egypt by the same organising committee that issued the above statement. The people doing this are instantly recognisable by the different colours, they are wearing. Just think of the seats in Portugal, but this time they are human beings, conducted from the front of the stand. At last nights DR Congo v Togo game there was a constant din, in front of what was a crowd of around 4,000 interested spectators and maybe 7 or 8,000 members of rent a crowd. Who were of course making lots of noise totally out of keeping with what was happening on the pitch.
Looking back on the last few days I was interested to read some comments in the Egyptian press. - Mido 'the terrible'. (I know he missed a penalty, was substituted and hadn't scored in the previous two Nations Cups, but I feel they were a bit harsh on him!)
Then there was the case of the Libyas Brazilian keeper, Agustini. Who showed his Latin temperament to get sent off. If only he had kept quiet they wouldn't have known he was Brazilian and he might have stayed on.
As for my tickets , and hence the ire. I returned to the Ministry of Youth expecting to walk in and walk out. It wasn't to be. The warning signs were there when I was immediately offered a cup of coffee. I was able to talk to other spectators and members of the media that I had also seen the previous day. So I wasn't the only one having problems. After three hours and one orange juice my remaining tickets, somewhat bedraggled were produced. By this time it was 1.15 and kick off for the Morocco v Ivory Coast was 2. Faced with no choice I had to give in and get the taxi there.
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World Soccer News
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Tags
Soccer News soccer football J-League K-League Betting
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